Roti Jala

I gather from my nieces that in recent years Malaysia has tried to claim credit from Java for the development of batik.  While I'll definitely side with Indonesia on this issue, I believe Malaysia gets the nod for roti jala.

A crepe-like bread to accompany curries, roti jala is not something I have actually come across in Malaysia or Indonesia.  I first became aware of it several years ago when I bought a copy of Authentic Recipes from Malaysia, which calls them lacy Indian pancakes.  Named for its fishnet resemblance, roti jala is traditionally made with a special funnel with four or five spouts to form the net-like pattern.  I was at a Sundanese restaurant last summer that had several varieties of the funnels as decoration on its walls, suggesting that, at least in the past,  roti jala was enjoyed in Java.  The funnel I use is an inexpensive plastic one that I picked up in Singapore.  One could get much the same effect with more effort using a plastic squeeze bottle.

The recipe here is adapted from Resep Klasik Jajanan Pasar (Classic Market Snack Recipes), which contains 270 recipes for snacks that are often sold in Indonesian markets.  As supermarkets supplant the traditional markets, some of these snacks will undoubtedly disappear. One of the interesting things about the book is that one of the co-authors is a Japanese woman, Tomomi Kimura, who was studying at UGM in Yogya.  She collaborated with a catering company in compiling the recipes.

 

Roti Jala

printable recipe

1/4 cup thick coconut milk
1 3/4 cup water
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp salt
1 egg, beaten
pinch of turmeric (optional)
vegetable oil to grease the pan

In a bowl, whisk together the coconut milk, water, salt, turmeric (if using), and egg.  Gradually whisk in the flour until you have a smooth batter, about the consistency of whipping cream.  Strain the batter through a fine sieve to remove any possible lumps.  This is important if using a roti jala funnel because even the smallest lumps can clog the spouts.

Heat a large non-stick skillet over medium heat.  Pour in a splash of vegetable oil and rub it into the surface with a paper towel.  Ladle some batter into the funnel (if using), holding the funnel about a half-inch to an inch over the skillet.  Move the funnel in circular pattern to form a lacy, fishnet-like crepe.  Cook until the crepe is set and the edges begin to lift and curl from the pan.  Slide onto a clean plate.  Roll or fold into eighths.  Continue until all the batter is finished. 

This makes about 16-20 crepes.  Serve it with curries or other saucy dishes.  I served it here with an excellent Burmese shrimp curry from Naomi Duguid's Burma: Rivers of Flavor.  I'll be posting my take on this dish soon.

Tomato and Olive Focaccia

After spending most of the summer in Indonesia, I have had  a longing for some good bread.  While Indonesia has great food, its bakeries are weak.  Indonesians tend to favor over-processed, Wonderbread-like fluffy baked goods.  Despite this, or perhaps because of it, toast (roti bakar) is a popular street snack, something I never could understand.

Focaccia is a good antidote to the tasteless loaves of Indonesia.  This particular recipe, from Saveur, produces a crisp bottom crust and a good crumb.  The combination of olives and tomatoes on the top is a wonderful use of local produce that captures the essence of a summer day in the central valley.  A slice of this along with a salad and you've got yourself a satisfying meal.

The recipe is from issue #120 of Saveur which I happened to pick up to read about Andrea Nguyen's account of her return to Saigon.  Saveur also has the recipe on its site. Click on Focaccia with Tomatoes and Olives to get the recipe.

Banh Tieu and Bidong

Banh tieu is not something most people would think of when they think of Vietnamese food.  It's not sophisticated.  There are no complex sauces or elaborate accompaniments.  You'd be hard pressed to find it on the menu of any Vietnamese restaurant, and it's not something many people make at home.  Yet, I imagine for most Vietnamese, banh tieu is a treat that evokes as many memories as Proust's madeleines.  For me, banh tieu always reminds me of Pulau Bidong.

 In 1981 I was living in Sacramento, going to graduate school and teaching ESL to refugees from Southeast Asia.   As a result of the fighting between Vietnam and China, large numbers of ethnic Chinese fled  northern cities and sailed to Hong Kong.  Refugees from the south, ethnic Chinese as well as many former soldiers for the South Vietnamese army or officials in the South Vietnamese government, sailed to Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, and the Philippines.  At the same time refugees were also fleeing Cambodia and Laos.  Sacramento suddenly found itself with an exploding population of Khmer, Lao, Vietnamese and ethnic Chinese with varying levels of education and exposure to western culture.  Pockets of refugees settled among the worst areas of town and local community agencies struggled to meet their many needs.

I was working for Catholic Social Services. My supervisor at the time, a young woman about my age, happened to mention that there was a need for teachers in Bataan, at the processing center that was just being set up to help refugees who had been accepted for resettlement in the US.  She had been selected to go, but then backed out at the last minute.  She gave me some information about how to apply and I did.  There were no openings for Bataan, but there was a need for teachers in Malaysia if I were interested.  I jumped at the chance.